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Walk into any tack shop and you will see rows of hats in every colour, finish and price bracket. It is tempting to start with the one that looks best on the shelf, but a riding hat only does its job if it stays exactly where it is meant to be when something goes wrong. A loose hat can rotate or lift on impact, leaving the wrong part of your head unprotected. A hat that is too tight will press on your forehead, cause headaches within twenty minutes and encourage you to wear the harness undone — which rather defeats the object.
The colour, the brand and the price tag are the last things to consider. Correct fit, a current safety standard and a properly adjusted harness come first. Everything else is decoration.
In the UK, a riding hat should carry a label showing it meets a recognised standard. The ones you will commonly see accepted for competition are PAS 015:2011, VG1 (the jockey skull cap standard, currently VG0123456789), SNELL E2016 and ASTM F1163. Older hats marked only to EN 1384 should be avoided — that standard was withdrawn in 2016 and is no longer considered adequate for equestrian use.
If you are unsure whether a hat is still acceptable, ask an experienced fitter or your riding club. It is a two-minute question that could save you a great deal.
Hat sizes are given in centimetres, and the measurement needs to be taken around the widest part of your head. Using a soft tape measure, run it around your head roughly two centimetres above your eyebrows at the front, dipping slightly at the back to sit at the widest point of your skull. Keep the tape level and snug, not tight.
Measurements give you a starting point, but they never tell the whole story. Head shapes vary enormously, and two people with the same circumference may need completely different hats.
Always be fitted in person, by someone who knows what they are doing, and allow twenty to thirty minutes for it. A good fitter will try several models, because the shape of the shell matters as much as the size. Here is what you should be able to say about a hat that fits you properly:
If you can tip the hat forward over your eyes with one hand, it is too big. If it leaves a throbbing band across your forehead, it is too small.
The shape you choose should follow what you actually do. Skull caps with a separate silk are the usual choice for cross-country, hunting and young riders, because a flexible peak reduces the risk of injury if you fall forwards. Fixed-peak hats are popular for dressage, showing and general hacking, where a peak is useful for shading your eyes.
Adjustable hats with a dial or twist fitting at the back are convenient for growing children and for shared hats, but a correctly fitted fixed size is generally the better starting point for an adult who rides regularly. Ventilation, weight and a removable washable liner are all worth considering if you ride for hours at a time. A lighter hat is more comfortable, but never choose lightness over a current standard.
A hat is safety equipment, not a fashion accessory, and it has a working life. Replace it after any fall where your head takes an impact, even if the outer shell looks perfectly fine — the protective foam inside may have compressed and will not recover. As a rule of thumb, replace a hat roughly every five years, sooner if it has been stored badly.
Take your time over the decision, get a professional fitting, and treat the hat as part of your everyday kit rather than an occasional purchase. Your head is worth the extra half hour in the shop.
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Wipe mud off bridles and saddles after every ride, then clean and condition leather regularly to prevent cracking.
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